History
Moclín has a history stretching back more than 60,000 years.
Walking through the dramatic landscapes, it is easy to imagine that you have gone back in time. Across the valleys slashed into the rock, there are numerous cave complexes dating back to neolithic times, and many of these have original paintings depicting the hunting of cabra, the Ibex, still very much in evidence here.
One of the caves still being studied by archaeologists has given up treasures that indicate people were living here over 60,000 years ago.
Strategically, it has been at the frontier of some of Spain’s most turbulent periods. Built on a stunning peak in the midst of Los Montes de Granada, the 13th Century Castillo de Moclín was under almost constant siege for 200 years from the time it was built. The castle was considered one of the ruling Moorish kingdom’s most impregnable fortresses, protecting the vast vega of Granada beyond.
“The smallest court of the Greatest Queen that Spain had ever known”
In 1486, Los Reyes Católicos, Isabel y Fernando, finally captured the castle of Moclín and for 6 years this was the “smallest court of the Greatest Queen that Spain had ever known”. In 1492, Isabel and Fernando finally conquered the city of Granada. On clear days, it is possible to see the Alhambra Palace from both the castle and the terrace behind Casa Higueras. Over the subsequent years, Moclín was one of 7 villages that provided the grain for Granada, and one of the beautiful buildings in the village, the 16th Century Posito del Pan, was one of the providers of capital for the original Bank of Spain.
The village hosts one of the most important annual religious festivals in Spain, Las Fiestas en Honor del Santísimo Christo del Paño, and as many as 20,000 people can descend on the village every 5th October to pay homage to a canvas depicting the image of Christ and the Cross. This painting was a battle standard donated by Isabel and Fernando to the village as thanks for their support during their time here.
This fiesta inspired Granada’s most famous poet and playwright Federico Garcia Lorca to write his play, ‘Yerma’.
In more recent times, the village again found itself at the frontier, this time in the Spanish Civil War when Moclín and the surrounding valley was occupied by Nationalist forces, and trenches remain dotted around the hills.
Amenities
Today, Moclín is a very welcoming rural village set in some of Granada Province’s most spectacular scenery.
The village has one bar in the plaza (central square) and a chiringuito (beach-shack) that opens during the summer months and fiestas. There is a cash-point, a small village supermarket that sells a good range of essential items and a pharmacy. Buses run daily (except Sunday) to and from Granada.
Where to Eat
Every village in the vicinity has at least one bar, and these generally offer very good traditional food and free tapas.
Here is a selection of some of our favourite places to eat and drink in the area:
Cafe Bar la Plaza, Moclín. (Open Tuesday - Sunday. CLOSED MONDAY)
A busy local bar in the village’s main square, opposite the town hall. With your drinks, there is a menu from which to choose your free tapas and these tend to be hearty and quite filling. Ideal if you are peckish after a hike and want to soak up a lot of the village atmosphere. At weekends, it gets busy here with Spanish hikers, and tables and chairs spill out onto the square and there is a lot of chat!
El Rincon de Marcelo, Tozar. This is a lovely bar and restaurant in the neighbouring village of Tozar. In the summer, there is a fabulous roof terrace with great views back towards Moclín, and the food and wines here are always good. On a hot day, make sure you order a beer as it will be served in frozen glasses and will be so cold that ice crystals float in the golden liquid; divine!
El Chiringuito, Mures. For a beach-shack vibe, make for this characterful bar in the very traditional village of Mures. All the seating is outside under pergolas, surrounded by mature plants - you could be forgiven for thinking you are on the edge of a sandy beach. Very good tapas. Closed in the winter.
Bar Analcris, Puerto Lope. A strange one, and rather unexpected. In the village of Puerto Lope, we often drove past this bar believing it was closed. However, one evening we managed to find it open and it was very surprising. Outside, it is a humble village bar but inside it is something of a shrine to heavy metal music. That particular theme rather belies the delicate and quite delicious tapas we were served with our beers.
Restaurante Los Martinez, Olivares. The bar part of this establishment is very traditional, and the hosts are lovely. There is a little terrace outside if you fancy a drink half way round the Ruta del Gollizno, along with a welcome tapa. If you fancy something more substantial, ask for dinner or lunch and you will be taken through an unmarked door into a restaurant that is perfect for a winter’s meal. There is a large fireplace that throws out some heat, and the menu features a fair amount of local game. Good selection of wine too.
There are many, many more places to try and we can share the good and bad…
“Once settled in, Andrew and Ian gave me some superb recommendations for my weekend stay which I share with gusto! Firstly, a day swimming and picnicking at the beautiful reservoir at Colomera (the drive there alone is a memory in itself). After a swim and sunbathe, they then recommended dinner at the Chiringuito de Mures nearby... which I must say had the BEST homegrown tomato salad I’ve had, ever... how can they taste so good?! ”
Location
Moclín is located 35 kms North-West of Granada. The nearest airport is Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport (GRX) which is 30 minutes’ drive from Casa Higueras. It takes around 40 minutes to drive to Granada city centre.
Distances from Moclín:
Granada City - 35 kms
Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport - 31 kms
Playa de Granada Beach, Costa Tropical - 105 kms
Sierra Nevada Ski Station - 74 kms
Córdoba - 135 kms
Jaén - 72 kms
Málaga - 138 kms
Málaga Airport - 147 kms
The village lies at an altitude of 1,100 meters (the same height as Mt Snowdon in Wales), so don’t be surprised if you feel a bit breathless if you go out for a healthy hike!
Climate
Spring: March - May. Some rain possible but mainly sunny. Daytime temps around 18-25 degrees. Nights can be much cooler.
Summer: June - September are hot, dry and sunny. Daily average temperatures June - August are around 30-35 degrees but can reach 40 degrees. Evenings are cooler due to the altitude so it’s rarely uncomfortable to sleep.
Autumn: October - November. Often short sharp thunderstorms but daytime temps can still be 28-35 degrees
Winter: December - March. COLD! But often weeks of clear sunny skies. Sometimes temperatures can reach 18 degrees in the middle of the day but nights are cold. Expect early morning frosts, some lengthy spells of rain and mist, and even the occasional flurry of snow.
